1. PRINCIPLES
Chromium can’t
be deposited from solution only chromic acid (CrO3) and water. There must also
be present in bath one or more acid radicals which act catalyst to bring about
or aid in the cathodic deposition of chromium. The purity of chromic acid used
is often not specified or established and yet the nature
Chrome plating
is not difficult providing the part has been properly cleansed and the
following requirements met:
·
Preparation of the chromic acid (CrO3)
solution..(Do not acquire the hydrogenated [ H3CrO4 ] chromic acid crystals)
·
Temperature control of the bath (plating
solution)
·
Preparation of lead anodes (peroxide)
·
Agitation method of the bath (bubbles)
·
Plating current density control and duration
(controller)
·
Ventilation (for safety)
All that remains
is the requirement of time - so don't let the apparent complexity of the task
discourages you because the results are very worthwhile, indeed.
I have studied
the industrial processes involved, reduced them to pint-size applications for
model engineering, and experimented enough to be able to tell you what works.
We have a lot to learn and the process has been laid out for you in ten easy
steps. So, here we go!
2. DECORATIVE OR HARD CHROME
All chromium is
about the same hardness; 800 to 1000 VHN - very hard! The main difference lies
in the thickness of the deposit.
For decorative
purposes, chrome sits best on nickel which itself adheres very well to copper -
this combination also offers the best corrosion protection resistance.
Decorative chrome thickness will vary from a few hundredths of a mm to 1 mm.
The mirror finish will only be as good as the finish you put on the surface
before you put on the chrome.
For functional
purposes, to take advantage of the extremely low chrome coefficient of
friction, or for wear build-up (bearing surfaces or pistons, as examples), hard
chrome is plated in thickness as required from 1 to 50 mills.
When used as a
bearing surface. Chrome must be micro-finished (more on this later) and will
then provide a coefficient of friction lower than any other metal when used
against steel, iron, brass, bronze, babbitt, or aluminium alloys. Do not use
chrome against chrome. Because chrome is also much harder than casehardened
steel, we then have a perfect set-up for longwearing working surfaces. Chrome
will resist mostly all organic and in organic compounds and acids, except
hydrochloric acid (muriatic).
3. CONTROL OF THICKNESS OF DEPOSIT
Given fixed
parameters for temperature, plating solutions, anodes, set-up, and current
density, thickness is a function of time. Expect around .75 to 1.2 mm per hour
of plating time.
I have plated up
to 20 mills successfully at home - admittedly this was by accident because I
was aiming for 3 mills deposit to refinish a piston! It had previously taken
six hours using a particular chromic acid solution to deposit 3 mills of
excellent chrome. I thought to shorten plating time I would increase the
current density from 600 mA to 800 mA and the temperature of the solution was
tweaked from 450 C. to 500 C. (1 13oF to 122o F). I then plated, with
agitation, for five hours and wound up with an hour-glass shaped piston, due to
a 13 mill chrome deposit measured at mid-skirt level and 21 mils on the edges
(formed by the bottom of the skirt and the piston crown).
Let that be a
lesson to all of us: Never change more than one parameter at a time.
Subsequently,
grinding of the same piston was successfully carried out; which attests to the
excellent adhesion of the chrome to the base metal (steel) as prepared earlier.
Of course, the
piston was then lapped to a perfect fit in the re-lapped bore (no rings
involved in that .020 cu.in. engine). We'll come to the grinding and lapping
notes later. Chrome will lap to a superb finish, to a degree of precision
obtainable by no other method and limited only by the machinist's patience and
skills.
4. PREPARATION OF THE CHROMIC ACID BATH
NOTE: The chemical formulations given
in this article are in avoirdupois ounces per gallon of solution (avoir.
oz./gal). To convert these to metric measure, simply multiply the oz/gal number
by the conversion factor of 7.5 to obtain grams per litre.
4.1. BRIGHT CHROME
I use the basic
formulation of 100:1 chromic acid/sulphuric acid proportions:
Chromic acid
crystals = 33 oz. (936 grams)
Sulphuric acid
fluid = .33 oz. (9.36 millilitre)
Distilled (or
demineralized) water to make 1 gallon (3.79 litre).
Of course, you
can vary these proportions in accordance with the quantity you wish to make up.
So, to make up one pint for small work, simply divide everything by eight The
dilution ratio of the sulphuric acid as purchased has to be taken into account
and the amount used in the bath must be one of pure H2SO4 to 100 Cr03.
Be very accurate in this process;
and:
ALWAYS ADD ACID SLOWLY TO WATER
-- NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID –
If you have
access to de-mineralized water from your home dehumidifier, it can be a good
substitute for the recommended distilled water.
Also, I
recommend the use of surgical rubber gloves when handling any of the chemicals
called up in this article. Pharmacies (Chemists) carry them and they are much
easier to replace than the skin of your hands.
The chromic acid
crystals yield about 52% pure chrome metal. For reasons, which must remain
unexplained at this stage, a freshly mixed solution will only deposit passably
good chromium. The same solution, like a good wine, improves with age... So use
it for experimentation when first mixed, before you undertake any serious
plating - I keep mine in a sealed glass container and it is good for years.
Filter as required between uses - plating current will be around 0.75 A/sq.in.
For bright chrome and up to 1.4 A/sqin. for dull 'hard chrome'.
4.2. BLACK CHROME
Black chrome can
also be plated the same way and still have similar characteristics to the
bright chrome. For aesthetic or anti-reflective applications, it may be
preferable in some cases. I have not yet used it, but the formula is as
follows:
Chromic acid 33 oz (936 g)
Acetic acid = 28.2 oz (800 g)
Barium acetate =1.0 oz (28 g)
Distilled (or demineralized)
water to make 1 gal. (3.79 litre).
Operation of
this bath will be at 90° to 115° F (32.2° C. to 46.1° C.) and at a current
density of 0.25 to 0.63 AIsq.in. (More on how to set this up later).
4.3. TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Temperature is
critical for good (or any) results. This is best maintained automatically by
using a thermostatically controlled electric heater right in the bath. A simple
and cheap expedient for this requirement is to use a tropical fish-tank heater
available at any pet store. And, while you're there, pick up a fish tank air
pump, plastic piping to suit, and one air valve control, too.
The 115 V heater
comes in a quartz tube with a temperature control knob on top. This acts on a
bi-metal strip contact tension and can easily be cranked up to maintain the
required 45° C. to 50° C. (1130F. to 122° F). A thermometer covering this range
is also required.
It is important
this temperature range be maintained throughout plating times.
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